Monday, 02/08/2010 - San Pedro, Lago de Atitlan

Aldous Huxley (Beyond the Mexique Bay (1934)) called Lago Atitlan one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, comparing it with Lago Como in Northern Italy. As I drove down the mountains yesterday, and, coming around a turn, I finally got my first glimpse of it: The sun had just come out from between the coulds, and down below I could see an ocean of beautiful blue, surrounded by little bays and lagunas on each side, and appearing to continue forever straightforward. I see some towns at the bottom of the hills on each side by the lake, and wonder what they will look like. I shall find out soon.
But first I'm gonna step back in time a little bit. I was lazy on Friday and Saturday, spending my last two days in Xela just hanging out, and getting to know fellow travelers better. On Saturday morning I went with Lilian to get my first, most likely also last, manicure. My main reason for going was that I strongly assumed that they gonna have comfortable couches/love seats, which turned out to be correctly. So after getting a good rest in one of those, I got my own manicure. I can't say it made a big improvement in the looks of my hands/nails, but at least my hands smelled damn good all day.
In the afternoon Lenka (the Czech girl) and I took off to "Chichi", a small sleepy town in the mountains in which every Sunday one of the biggest (or the biggest) market in Central America erupts. We got some great local food on Saturday night and Sunday morning in the market. An amazing amount of stuff. Anything you can think of and more. Western clothes (mostly T-shirts), Mayan clothes, cloth, jewelry, spices, dried fish, tools (used and new), Mayan artwork (souvenirs), and much much more. The streets and plazas have turned into a maze of rows of stands and little stores. You fight your way through the crowd, which is sometimes more dense then at others. You bump into people carrying supplies, women carrying baskets on their heads, men carrying heavy bags on their bag, attached to a leather strap around their forehead. Even though I don't like big crowds, it's an amazing experience. And despite all the hastle, haggling, and so on, the people are super friendly.
At around twelve I decide to head off, saying fare well to Lenka, who is staying for another night before heading north. I'm heading south to Lago Atitlan. The main town on the lake, Panachel, I've been told has gotten incredibly touristy. Hence I decided to go to "San Pedro de Laguna", a smaller town on the other side of the lake. I spent about 2 hours looking at hotels/hostals yesterday, and ended up at the one Verena recommeded: Hotel Paraiso, where I take the cheapest room (communal bath) for 25 Quetzales (about $3) a night - including parking in their courtyard). Strolling around town last night, I discovered a "Buddhist bar" (or something like that, it's their moto), where I meet some people with which I head to a super-bowl party in a sports bar later. Great game. Happy for the people of New Orleans. Sad for Manning. I think it's pretty clear the Colts are the better team, but I don't think they played with a lot of heart. Wonder what last night was like at Bourbon Street.
Now I'm sitting at "Zoola", a hip hotel focused on providing a really relaxing / hang out atmosphere. They were full yesterday. Today they only have a dorm bet or a room with private bath ($12, way too expensive). So I decide to stay in my place, and just hang out here.
I've been thinking a lot about finishing the PhD lately. Even though I am pretty much certain I don't want to work in academia later, it would give me a degree in the logistics / supply chain field, which is where I think I want to work in. I will probably soon formulate an email to Dan, our PhD program director, asking if it would be okay to return with those intentions. One of the main motivations for faculty to work with PhD students is the potential for joint future publishing - which would be voided in my scenario. So we'll see.
I think I'm gonna explore the bay a little this afternoon, and all the things you can do around here.

More pics to follow.
http://picasaweb.google.com/joegrass76/03cChici#

http://picasaweb.google.com/joegrass76/03dLagoAtitlan#